Our El Cosmico Hot Tub Adventure in Marfa, TX

After two full days on the road from Indio, California—destination: Austin to see my daughter and grand babies—my husband Tim and I were stiff, road-weary, and in desperate need of a soak. That’s when we pulled into the El Cosmico in Marfa, Texas: a quirky, artsy glamping spot that promised something truly unique—a wood-fired hot tub under the stars. No jets. No temperature gauge. No clue what we were getting ourselves into. Naturally, we booked a teepee and soak in the tub.

Teepee Livin’

We rolled into El Cosmico around 4 p.m. It was hot—but thankfully, not Indio desert hot. The teepee surprised us with how roomy it was. A queen bed in the center, a twin tucked on one side, and a little couch on the other. The floor was lined with fur rugs (bear? deer? mystery critter?), and there was even a fire pit in the middle—though we had zero plans to fire that up in the heat. It was cozy, rustic, and kind of magical, but we didn’t linger. Too hot.

A Town Called Marfa

Instead, we escaped to Marfa for dinner. We landed at Jett’s Grill, and while I didn’t expect to rave about salmon in a desert town, here I am. Absolutely delicious. Afterward, we headed back to El Cosmico, poured ourselves a glass of wine, and played a round of cards at a shaded picnic table while the sun slid behind the horizon.

That’s when we decided to chase another local legend: the Marfa Mystery Lights. And let me tell you—they showed up for us. Strange glowing orbs appeared, danced, disappeared, reappeared, and kept us guessing the whole time. We heard they only appear a couple of times a month, so we felt lucky. Nature’s light show, Texas edition.

The Dutchtub Experience

Back at camp, we let the front desk know we were ready for our soak. They filled up and fired up the Dutchtub (a circular, wood-fired hot tub) earlier that afternoon to get it ready. No stairs. No rails. No thermometer. Just hot water and a roaring fire going in a metal coil off to the side.

Tim climbed in first and looked at me with wide eyes: “It’s hot.”

He wasn’t kidding.

I hoisted myself in (not the most graceful of entries, thanks to a bump in the middle of the tub) and immediately felt the difference. This wasn’t your average 102-degree hot tub experience. This was seriously hot—like, take a deep breath before lowering yourself in kind of hot.

At first, I wasn’t sure I’d last more than a minute or two. I usually soak for long periods to relax, but this was more like a wet sauna. Within minutes, I started sweating like crazy—and not just from the wine. I could actually feel the toxins melting out of me. It was intense… and oddly therapeutic. We sat there, repositioning ourselves around the mysterious center bump, laughing at how awkward it was and how we felt like hot-tub rookies despite owning one at home.

And then, as we sat still and let our bodies adjust, we looked up.

The stars.

Wow.

Marfa is known for its dark skies, and that night they were putting on a show. Crisp, clear constellations stretched across the sky like a glittering blanket. We leaned back, water steaming around us, fire crackling beside us, and just… soaked it all in. It was quiet. Peaceful. Almost spiritual. One of those rare moments where you feel totally present—and completely in awe.

After nearly 30 minutes (way longer than I expected), we finally climbed out, breathless and glowing. No jets, no bubbles, but I slept deeper that night than I had in weeks. Maybe it was the soak. Maybe the stars. Maybe the road trip catching up to me. Whatever it was—it worked.

Final Thoughts

The Dutchtub at El Cosmico wasn’t comfortable in the traditional sense. There were no seats, no steps, and no way to control the temperature. If we’d known, we could’ve asked for ice to cool it down. But I’m kind of glad we didn’t. That crazy, sweat-dripping soak turned into one of our favorite memories on the trip.

If you're looking for polished luxury, this probably isn’t your place. But if you want something unexpected, soulful, and off the beaten path—this desert retreat delivers. The teepees are cozy, the hot tubs are wild, and the stars are unforgettable.

So next time you're passing through West Texas, and your body is crying out for a soak, take a chance on the weird and wonderful. El Cosmico might just surprise you—in the best possible way.

Stay Bubbly,

Cindy Melbrod